This is Ultima Thule
Late winter is a fine time to visit the land of the Sámi,
in the Finnish province of Lapland. When the months of
winter gloom finally yield to the springtime light, the
ice-covered lakes among the open fells above the
village of Utsjoki yield whitefish, arctic charr, trout and grayling to local ice anglers. Utsjoki borders on Norway in the north and is separated by but a narrow strip of Norway from the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean.
For a fisherman Utsjoki is synonymous with Teno, the mighty river that forms the border between Finland and Norway as it flows towards the Arctic Ocean. Salmon fisherman and fishing guide Heikki Tuovila was born and raised by Teno. He was taught to fish as a small boy by his father, and has gone on fishing all his life. Tuovila feels a deep attachment to the legendary waters of Europe’s prime salmon river.in the Finnish province of Lapland. When the months of
winter gloom finally yield to the springtime light, the
ice-covered lakes among the open fells above the
village of Utsjoki yield whitefish, arctic charr, trout and grayling to local ice anglers. Utsjoki borders on Norway in the north and is separated by but a narrow strip of Norway from the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean.
As he stands splashed by the icy waters of the Teno by the rapids of Yläköngäs, he recites the lyrics of a song:
“The most beautiful thing in the boy’s eyes was the silvery stream, like a clear and wise thought. I wanted to be like that sturdy tree, rooted on the banks of the stream of life.”
One of the largest male spawning salmon ever caught in the river swam into a trap set by Heikki’s brother some 40 years ago.
“With a slap of its tail, it ignited my lifelong desire to fish. That was surely the start of my career as a fisherman.”
Fishing in the Teno for a living has declined since those days, but arranging sports fishing trips for outsiders is now a major source of income for riverside residents like Tuovila.
Boats to please the spirits
Local master boat-builder Jouni Laiti, from the village of Utsjoki, is descended from generations of boat-builders who have also always kept up traditional knowledge of Lapland’s supernatural beings. Anyone rowing in his boats will remain blessed by the spirits. The river knows who is trying to catch its fish, and invisible hands can guide the courses of boats floating on its waters.
Boats for the Teno are made to a traditional local design that makes it easy for rowers to work their way through the river’s wild white rapids.
“The tough, tarred boats used by local salmon fishermen are built for both stability and maneuverability. They are also favoured by the water sprites who live beneath the river bed,” explains Laiti.
Boats for the Teno are built of age-old Lappish pinewood grown in the forests around Inari.
“Boat-building used to be a vital skill enabling families to make a living. Without a good boat you could hardly catch any fish,” Laiti adds.
Keeping traditions alive
People have only ever been able to keep warm and well fed in the far north thanks to their reindeer. Although times have changed in Lapland, reindeer are still very close to people. According to an ancient Sámi belief, the spirits of reindeer are blown in the wind, and guide the actions of people.
Maarit Paltto breathes new life into tanned reindeer skins in the village of Karigasniemi on the Finnish-Norwegian border, by making the workable skin from the reindeer’s legs into fine leather jackets.She says she needs about 50 reindeer leg skins to make a single jacket.
“I sew them together by hand, so making a jacket is a slow process. In the winter the reindeer herders use a special reindeer fur coat called a peski. In summer they wear lighter clothes made of traditionally tanned skins.”
No reindeer have to be slaughtered especially to make leather handicrafts. When reindeer are slaughtered for their meat, many more parts of the animal can be used to make a surprising variety of traditional Sámi handicrafts and tools.
By Kari Lindholm
Photos Seppo Samuli
